Operation CHARM: Car repair manuals for everyone.

Crankshaft Main Bearing










Main Bearing Cap




NOTE: While tightening the main bearing vertical bolts, push the crankshaft forward and the No. 4 main bearing cap rearward to seat the crankshaft thrust washers.

Tighten the main bearing bolts in the sequence shown in 2 stages.
Stage 1: Tighten fasteners 1 through 8 to 33 Nm (24 lb-ft).
Stage 2: Tighten fasteners 1 through 8 an additional 135 degrees.







Install the new 8 main bearing cap side bolts. Tighten in the sequence shown in 2 stages.
Stage 1: Tighten fasteners 1 through 8 to 45 Nm (33 lb-ft).
Stage 2: Tighten fasteners 1 through 8 an additional 90 degrees.







Install the main bearing cap support brace and the new bolts. Tighten in the sequence shown in 2 steps.
Stage 1: Tighten fasteners to 24 Nm (18 lb-ft).
Stage 2: Tighten fasteners an additional 180 degrees.










NOTE: This procedure is for selecting bearings using a new crankshaft.
Select the crankshaft main bearings for each crankshaft journal.

- Read the code on the crankshaft flange.

- Read the code on the cylinder block face.
- The first letter after the first asterisk makes up the code for main No. 1 and the next letter for main No. 2. The first letter after the second asterisk makes up the code for main No. 3 and the last letter for main No. 4.






Using the chart, choose a bearing for each main. Match the block and crankshaft code with its corresponding column or row, by reading across the "crankshaft" row and down the "block" column.
- If the block code is *BM*QS* and the crankshaft code is *OL*PO*, Main No. 1 should be built with grade 1 bearings, as determined by the intersection of the B block column and the O crankshaft row on the chart. Mains No. 2, No. 3 and No. 4 should all be grade 2.