Starter Test
Starter TestNOTE: The air temperature must be between 59 and 100° F (15 and 38° C) before testing.
Recommended Procedure:
^ Use a starter system tester.
^ Connect and operate the equipment in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
^ Test and troubleshoot as described.
Alternate Procedure:
^ Use the following equipment:
- Ammeter, 0 - 400 A
- Voltmeter, 0 - 20 V (accurate within 0.1 Volt)
- Tachometer, 0 - 1200 rpm
Starter Test:
^ Hook up voltmeter and ammeter as shown.
NOTE: After this test, or any subsequent repair, reset the ECM to clear any codes.
Check the Starter Engagement:
1. Remove the No. 31 (15 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box.
2. Turn the ignition switch to START (III) with the shift lever in [N] or [P] position (A/T) or with the clutch pedal depressed (M/T). The starter should crank the engine.
NOTE: On cars equipped with manual transmission, the engine will not crank unless the clutch pedal is fully depressed.
^ If the starter does not crank the engine, go to step 3.
^ If it cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to "Check for Wear and Damage".
3. Check the battery, battery positive cable, ground, starter cut relay, and the wire connections for looseness and corrosion. Test again.
If the starter still does not crank the engine, go to step 4.
4. Unplug the connector (BLK/WHT wire and solenoid terminal) from the starter.
Starter Test:
5. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive (+) terminal to the solenoid terminal.
The starter should crank the engine.
^ If the starter still does not crank the engine, remove it, and diagnose its internal problem.
^ If the starter cranks the engine, go to step 6.
6. Check the ignition switch.
7. Check the starter cut relay.
8. Check the A/T gear position switch (A/T) or clutch interlock switch (M/T).
9. Check for an open in the wire between the ignition switch and starter.
Check for Wear and Damage
The starter should crank the engine smoothly and steadily, if the starter engages, but cranks the engine erratically, remove it, and inspect the starter drive gear and torque converter or flywheel ring gear for damage.
^ Check the drive gear overrunning clutch for binding or slipping when the armature is rotated with the drive gear held.
- If damaged, replace the gears.
Check Cranking Voltage and Current Draw
Cranking voltage should be no less than *1 Volt. Current draw should be no more than *2 amperes.
*1: Nippondenso: 8.0
Mitsuba: 8.5
*2: Nippondenso: 280
Mitsuba: 350
If cranking voltage is too low, or current draw too high, check for:
^ dead or low battery.
^ open circuit in starter armature commutator segments.
^ starter armature dragging.
^ shorted armature winding.
^ excessive drag in engine.
Check Cranking rpm
Engine speed during cranking should be above 100 rpm.
If speed is too low, check for:
^ loose battery or starter terminals.
^ excessively worn starter brushes.
^ open circuit in commutator segments.
^ dirty or damaged helical spline or drive gear.
^ defective drive gear overrunning clutch.
Check Starter Disengagement
With the shift lever in [N] or [P] position (A/T) or with the clutch pedal depressed (M/T), turn the ignition switch to START (III), and release to ON (II).
The starter drive gear should disengage from the torque converter or flywheel ring gear when you release the key.
If the drive gear hangs up on the torque converter or flywheel ring gear, check for:
^ solenoid plunger and switch malfunction.
^ dirty drive gear assembly or damaged overrunning clutch.
Starter Solenoid Test
Starter Solenoid Test:
Mitsuba
1. Remove the starter solenoid from the gear housing.
Starter Solenoid Test:
2. Check for continuity between the terminals in each solenoid plunger position according to the table.
Nippondenso
1. Check the hold-in coil for continuity between the S terminal and the armature housing (ground). If there is continuity, the coil is OK.
Starter Solenoid Test:
2. Check the pull-in coil for continuity between the S and M terminals. If there is continuity, the coil is OK.
Armature Inspection and Test
Armature Inspection:
1. Inspect the armature for wear or damage due to contact with the permanent magnet or field winding.
^ If there is wear or damage, replace the armature.
Armature Inspection And Test:
Checking The Commutator Diameter:
2. Check commutator surface and diameter.
^ If the surface is dirty or burnt, resurface with emery cloth or a lathe within the following specifications, or recondition with #500 or #600 sandpaper.
^ If commutator diameter is below the service limit, replace the armature.
Armature Inspection And Test:
3. Measure the commutator runout.
^ If the commutator runout is within the service limit, check the commutator for carbon dust or brass chips between the segments.
^ If the commutator runout is not within the service limit, replace the armature.
Armature Inspection And Test:
4. Check the mica depth. If necessary, undercut mica with a hacksaw blade to achieve proper depth. If service limit cannot be maintained, replace the armature.
Checking For Continuity:
5. Check for continuity between the segments of the commutator. If an open circuit exists between any segments, replace the armature.
6. Place the armature on an armature tester. Hold a hacksaw blade on the armature core.
^ If the blade is attracted to the core or vibrates while the core is turned, the armature is shorted. Replace the armature.
Commutator And Armature Continuity Check:
7. With an ohmmeter, check that there is no continuity between the commutator and armature coil core, and between the commutator and armature shaft. If there is continuity, replace the armature.
Starter Brush Holder Test
Starter Brush Holder Test:
Mitsuba
Starter Brush Holder Test:
Nippondenso
1. Check that there is no continuity between the (+) and (-) brush holders. If there is continuity, replace the brush holder assembly.
Starter Brush Holder Test:
2. Insert the brush into the brush holder, and bring the brush into contact with the commutator, then attach a spring scale to the spring. Measure the spring tension at the moment the spring lifts off the brush.
Starter Brush Inspection
Starter Brush Inspection:
Measure the brush length. If not within the service limit, replace the brush (or brush holder assembly).
NOTE: To seat new brushes after installing them in their holders, slip a strip of #500 or #600 sandpaper, with the grit side up, over the commutator and smoothly rotate the armature. The contact surface of the brushes will be sanded to the same contour as the commutator.
Clutch Interlock Switch Test
1. Remove the dashboard lower cover and knee bolster, then disconnect the 2P connector from the switch.
Clutch Interlock Switch Test:
2. Check for continuity between the terminals according to the table.
3. If necessary, replace the switch or adjust the switch position.
Starter Field Winding Test
1. Check for continuity between the brushes. If there's no continuity, replace the armature housing.
Starter Field Winding Test:
2. Check for continuity between each brush and the armature housing (ground). If there is continuity, replace the armature housing.
Solenoid Plunger Inspection (Nippondenso)
Solenoid Plunger Inspection:
Check the contact points and face of the starter solenoid plunger for burning, pitting or any other defects. If surfaces are rough. recondition them with a strip of #500 or #600 sandpaper.
Overrunning Clutch Inspection
1. Slide the overrunning clutch along the shaft. Does it move freely? If not, replace it.
Overrunning Clutch Inspection:
2. Rotate the overrunning clutch both ways. Does it lock in one direction and rotate smoothly in reverse? If it does not lock in either direction or it locks in both directions, replace it.
3. If the starter drive gear is worn or damaged, replace the overrunning clutch assembly; the gear is not available separately.
4. Check the condition of the flywheel or torque converter ring if the starter drive gear teeth are damaged.