Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Starter Circuit TroubleshootingNOTE:
- Air temperature must be between 59 ° and 100 °F (15 ° and 38 °C) during this procedure.
- After this test, or any subsequent repair, reset the engine control module (ECM) to clear any diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs).
- The battery most be in good condition and fully charged.
- After troubleshooting, perform the engine control module (ECM) idle learn procedure.
Recommended Procedure:
- Use a starter system tester.
- Connect and operate the equipment in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
Alternate Procedure
1. Hook up the following equipment:
- Ammeter, 0 - 400 A
- Voltmeter, 0 - 20 V (accurate within 0.1 volt)
- Tachometer, 0 - 1200 rpm
2. Remove the No.6 (15 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box.
3. Turn the battery module switch OFF.
4. With the shift lever in [N] or [P] (CVT) or clutch pedal pressed (M/T), turn the ignition switch to start (III).
Did the starter crank the engine normally?
YES - The starting system is OK.
No - If starter will not crank the engine at all, go to step 5. If it cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 20. If it won't disengage from the flywheel or torque converter ring gear when you release the key, check for the following until you find the cause.
- Solenoid plunger and switch malfunction
- Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch
5. Check the battery condition. Check electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to body, the engine ground cables and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try starting the engine again.
Did the starter crank the engine?
YES - Repairing the loose connection repaired the problem. The starting system is OK.
No - Go to step 6.
6. Make sure the transmission is in neutral, then disconnect the BLK/WHT wire (A) from the starter solenoid (B). Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the solenoid terminal.
Did the starter crank the engine?
YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Remove the starter, and repair or replace as necessary.
7. Check the N0.21 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Is the fuse OK?
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Replace the fuse and recheck.
8. Remove the starter cut relay from the relay block, and test it.
Is the relay OK ?
YES - Go to step 9.
No - Replace the starter cut relay.
9. Check the ignition switch.
Is the ignition switch OK ?
YES - Go to step 10.
N0 - Replace the ignition switch.
10. Measure voltage between starter cut relay 5P socket terminal N0.2 and body ground with the ignition switch start (III)
Is there battery voltage?
YES - Go to step 11.
NO - Check for an open in the wire between the relay block and under-dash fuse/relay box, and under-dash fuse/relay box and ignition switch, if the wire is OK, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box.
11. Connect the starter cut relay 5P socket terminals No.1 and No.2 with a jumper wire, and turn the ignition switch to start (III).
Did the starter crank the engine?
YES - Go to step 12.
NO - Check for an open or short in the wire between the relay block and the starter.
12. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
13. Wait for 1 minute. If the radiator fan is running. Wait for 1 minute after the radiator fan stops.
14. Disconnect the ECM connector C (22P) and under-dash fuse/relay box 13P connector.
15. Check for continuity between starter cut relay 5P socket terminal No.5 and ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between the relay block and under-dash fuse/relay box, and relay block and ECM connector terminal C4.
NO - Go to step 16.
16. Reconnect the under-dash fuse/relay box 13P connector.
17. Measure voltage between starter cut relay 5P socket terminal No.5 and body ground with the ignition switch start (III)
Is there battery voltage?
YES - Go to step 18.
NO - Check for an open in the wire between the relay block and under-dash fuse/relay box, if the wire is OK, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box.
18. Check for continuity between starter cut relay 5P socket terminal No.5 and ECM connector terminal C4.
Is there continuity?
YES - Go to step 19.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the relay block and ECM connector terminal C4.
19. Check for continuity between starter cut relay 5P socket terminal No.3 and ECM connector terminal C14.
Is there continuity?
YES - Check the transmission range switch and connector (CVT) or the clutch interlock switch and connector (M/T). If switch is OK, substitute a known-good ECM, and recheck. If the starter works properly, replace the ECM.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the relay block and ECM connector terminal C14.
20. Check the engine speed while cranking the engine.
Is the engine speed above 100 rpm?
YES - Go to step 21.
NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following until you find the cause.
- Excessively worn starter brushes
- Open circuit in commutator brushes
- Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear
- Faulty drive gear clutch
21. Check the cranking voltage and current draw.
Is cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.5 V and current draw less than or equal to 350 A?
YES - Go to step 22.
NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following until you find the cause.
- Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments
- Starter armature dragging
- Shorted armature winding
- Excessive drag in engine
22. Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear and the flywheel or torque converter ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
23. When all repairs are done, reinstal the No. 6 (15A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box.