Part Two
Piston, Ring, Pin, and Connecting Rod Removal and Installation
33. Oil Pan Assembly
1. Remove the bolts securing the oil pan.
2. Using a flat blade screwdriver, separate the oil pan from the engine block in the places shown.
3. Remove the oil pan.
34. Oil Pump Chain Tensioner
1. Loosely install the crankshaft pulley.
2. To hold the rear balancer shaft, insert a 6 mm long pin punch (A) into the maintenance hole in the balancer shaft holder and through the rear balancer shaft.
3. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to compress the oil pump chain auto-tensioner.
4. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
5. Align the holes on the lock (A) and the oil pump chain auto-tensioner (B), then insert a 3.0 mm (7/64 in) diameter pin (C) into the holes. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to secure the pin.
6. Use a transmission jack to lift the transmission 30-40 mm (1.18-1.57 in), then remove the oil pump chain auto-tensioner.
35. Engine Oil Pump Assembly
1. Loosen the oil pump sprocket mounting bolt.
2. Remove the oil pump sprocket (A) and the oil pump chain guide (B).
3. Remove the oil pump chain.
4. Remove the oil pump.
36. Engine Baffle Plate
1. Remove the baffle plate.
37. Connecting Rod Caps/Bearing Halves
1. Remove the connecting rod caps/bearing. Keep all connecting rod caps/bearing halves in order.
38. Cylinder Lower Block Assembly
1. Remove the 8 mm bolts.
2. Remove the bearing cap bolts. To prevent warpage, loosen the bolts in sequence 1/3 turn at a time; repeat the sequence until all bolts are loosened.
3. Remove the lower block and the bearings. Keep all the bearings in order.
39. Crankshaft
1. Remove the crankshaft.
40. Crankshaft Oil Seal Transmission Side
1. Remove the crankshaft oil seal.
41. Piston/Connecting Rod Assembly
1. If you can feel a ridge of metal or hard carbon around the top of each cylinder, remove it with a ridge reamer. Follow the reamer manufacturer's instructions. If the ridge is not removed, it may damage the piston as it is pushed out.
42. Piston Ring
1. Use the wooden handle of a hammer (A) to drive out the piston/connecting rod assembly (B).
43. Piston Pin
1. Apply new engine oil to the piston pin snap rings (A), and turn them in the ring grooves until the end gaps are lined up with the cutouts in the piston pin bores (B).
NOTE: Take care not to damage the ring grooves.
2. Remove the snap rings (A) from both sides of each piston. Start at the cutout in the piston pin bore. Remove the snap rings carefully so they do not go flying or get lost. Wear eye protection.
3. Heat the piston and the connecting rod assembly to about 158 °F (70 °C).
4. Remove the piston pin.
Inspection
1. Piston Ring End Gap - Inspection
1. Measure the diameter of the piston pin.
2. Zero the dial indicator to the piston pin diameter.
3. Check the difference between the piston pin diameter and the piston pin hole diameter in the piston.
4. Measure the piston pin-to-connecting rod clearance.
2. Piston Pin - Inspection
1. Using a ring expander (A), remove the old piston rings (B).
2. Clean all ring grooves thoroughly with a squared-off broken ring or a ring groove cleaner with a blade to fit the piston grooves. The top and second ring grooves are 1.2 mm (0.047 in) wide. The oil ring groove is 2.0mm(0.079 in) wide. The top ring groove is 1.2 mm (0.047 in) wide. The second ring groove is 1.0 mm (0.039 in) wide. The oil ring groove is 2.0 mm (0.079 in) wide. File down a blade if necessary. Do not use a wire brush to clean the ring grooves, or cut the ring grooves deeper with the cleaning tools.
NOTE: If the piston is to be separated from the connecting rod, do not install the new rings yet.
3. Using a piston that has its rings removed, push a new ring (A) into the cylinder bore 15-20 mm (0.59-0.79 in) from the bottom.
4. Measure the piston ring end-gap (B) with a feeler gauge:
* If the gap is too small, check to see if you have the proper rings for your engine.
* If the gap is too large, recheck the cylinder bore diameter against the wear limits.
* If the bore is beyond the service limit, the engine block must be rebored.
