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Part One




Block and Piston Inspection

Installation

1. Piston/Connecting Rod Assembly





1. Remove the connecting rod caps, then install the ring compressor, and check that the bearing is securely in place.

2. Apply new engine oil to the piston, the inside of the ring compressor, and the cylinder bore, then attach the ring compressor to the piston/connecting rod assembly.

3. Position the mark (A) to face the cam chain side of the engine block.





4. Position the piston in the cylinder, and tap it in using the wooden handle of a hammer (A). Push down on the ring compressor (B) to prevent the rings from expanding before entering the cylinder bore.

5. Stop after the ring compressor pops free, and check the connecting rod-to-rod journal alignment before pushing the piston into place.

2. Crankshaft





1. Hold the crankshaft so rod journal No. 2 and rod journal No. 3 are straight up, and lower the crankshaft into the engine block. Be careful not to damage the journals and the CKP pulse plate.

3. Crankshaft Main Bearing Clearance - Inspection





1. Clean each main journal and the bearing half with a clean shop towel.

2. Place one strip of plastigage across each main journal.

3. Reinstall the main bearings and the lower block, then torque the bolts to 30 Nm (3.1 kgfm, 22 lbfft).

NOTE:
* Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flanges.
* Do not rotate the crankshaft during inspection.

4. Tighten the bearing cap bolts an additional 48 °.





5. Remove the lower block and the main bearings again, and measure the widest part of the plastigage.








4. Crankshaft Main Bearing - Selection





1. Numbers, letters, or bars have been stamped on the end of the lower block as a code for the size of each of the five main journal bores. Write down the block bore codes. If you cannot read the codes because of accumulated dirt and dust, do not scrub them with a wire brush or scraper. Clean them only with solvent or detergent.









2. The main journal codes are stamped on the crankshaft.





3. Use the block bore codes and the main journal codes to select the appropriate replacement bearings from the following table.

NOTE:
* Color code is on the edge of the bearing.
* When using bearing halves of different colors, it does not matter which color is used in the top or bottom.

5. CYLINDER LOWER BLOCK ASSEMBLY





1. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the lower block mating surfaces, the bolts, and the bolt holes.

2. Clean and dry the lower block mating surfaces.

3. Apply liquid gasket (P/N 08718-0004 or 08718-0009) to the engine block mating surface of the lower block and to the inside edge of the threaded bolt holes. Install the component within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket.

NOTE:
* Apply a 2.5 mm (0.098 in) diameter bead of liquid gasket along the broken line (A).
* If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and residue, then reapply new liquid gasket.





4. Put the lower block on the engine block.

5. Apply new engine oil to the threads of the bearing cap bolts. Torque the bearing cap bolts in sequence, to 30 Nm (3.1 kgfm, 22 lbfft).





6. Tighten the bearing cap bolts an additional 48 °.





7. Torque the 8 mm bolts in sequence to 22 Nm (2.2 kgfm, 16 lbfft).

NOTE:
* Wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with oil.
* Do not run the engine for at least 3 hours after installing the lower block.

6. Connecting Rod Bearing Clearance - Inspection





1. Clean the connecting rod journal and the bearing half with a clean shop towel.

2. Place plastigage across the connecting rod journal.

3. Reinstall the bearing half and the connecting rod cap, then torque the bolts to 41 Nm (4.2 kgfm, 30 lbfft)+ 120 °.

NOTE:
* Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flanges.
* Do not rotate the crankshaft during inspection.

4. Remove the connecting rod cap and the bearing half, and measure the widest part of the plastigage.







5. If the plastigage measures too wide or too narrow, remove the cap, and the upper half of the bearing. Install a new, complete bearing with the appropriate color code(s), and recheck the clearance. Do not file, shim, or scrape the bearings or the caps to adjust clearance.

6. If the plastigage shows the clearance is still incorrect, try the next larger or smaller bearing (the color listed above or below the current one), and check the clearance again. If the proper clearance cannot be obtained by using the appropriate larger or smaller bearings, replace the crankshaft and start over.

7. Connecting Rod Bearing - Selection





1. Each connecting rod has a tolerance range from 0 to 0.024 mm (0.00094 in), in 0.006 mm (0.00024 in) increments, depending on the size of its big end bore. It's then stamped with a number or bar (1, 2, 3, or 4/I, II, III, or IIII) indicating the range. You may find any combination of numbers and bars in any engine. (Half the number or bar is stamped on the rod cap, the other half is on the connecting rod.) If you cannot read the code because of an accumulation of oil and varnish, do not scrub it with a wire brush or scraper. Clean it only with solvent or detergent.









2. The connecting rod journal codes are stamped on the crankshaft in either location.





3. Use the big end bore codes and the rod journal codes to select appropriate replacement bearings from the following table.

NOTE:
* Color code is on the edge of the bearing.
* When using bearing halves of different colors, it does not matter which color is used in the top or bottom.

8. Connecting Rod Caps/Bearing Halves





1. Apply new engine oil to the threads of the connecting rod bolts.

2. Seat the rod journals into connecting rod No. 1 and connecting rod No. 4. Line up the mark (A) on the connecting rod and the bearing cap.

3. Install the bearing caps and the bolts finger-tight.

4. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise, and seat the journals into connecting rod No. 2 and connecting rod No. 3. Line up the mark on the connecting rod and the bearing cap.

5. Install the bearing caps and the bolts finger-tight.





6. Torque the bolts to 41 Nm (4.2 kgfm, 30 lbfft).

7. Tighten the connecting rod bolts an additional 120 °.

NOTE: Remove the connecting rod bolt if you tightened it beyond the specified angle, inspect the connecting rod bolts. Do not loosen it back to the specified angle.

9. Crankshaft Oil Seal Transmission Side





1. Clean and dry the crankshaft oil seal housing.

2. Apply a light coat of new engine oil to the lip of the crankshaft oil seal.

3. Use the driver handle, 15 x 135L and the oil seal driver attachment, 96 mm to drive a new crankshaft oil seal (A) squarely into the engine block to the specified installed height.

4. Clean the excess oil off the crankshaft, and check that the oil seal lip is not distorted.

5. Measure the distance between the engine block (A) and the crankshaft oil seal (B).











10. Engine Baffle Plate





1. Install the baffle plate.

11. Engine Oil Pump Assembly





1. Set the crankshaft to top dead center (TDC). Align the TDC mark (A) on the crankshaft sprocket with the pointer (B) on the engine block.





2. Install the oil pump chain on the crankshaft sprocket with the colored link plate (A) aligned with the TDC mark (B) on the crankshaft sprocket.





3. Set the oil pump chain on the oil pump chain sprocket (A) with the punch mark (B) aligned with the center of the two colored link plates (C), then install the oil pump chain sprocket to the oil pump.

4. To hold the rear balancer shaft, insert a 6 mm long pin punch (D) into the maintenance hole in the balancer shaft holder and through the rear balancer shaft.

5. Apply new engine oil to the threads of the oil pump sprocket mounting bolt (E), then install the oil pump sprocket mounting bolt and the oil pump chain guide (F).

6. Remove the 6 mm long pin punch.





7. Turn the plate (A) counterclockwise, to release the lock, then push the oil pump chain auto-tensioner arm (B), and set the first cam (C) to the first edge of the rack (D). Insert a 3.0 mm (7/64 in) diameter pin (E) into the hole (F).

NOTE: If the chain tensioner is not set up as described, the tensioner will become damaged.

12. Oil Pump Chain Tensioner





1. Install the oil pump chain tensioner.

13. Oil Pan Assembly





1. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the oil pan mating surfaces, the bolts, and the bolt holes.

2. Clean and dry the oil pan mating surfaces.

3. Apply liquid gasket (P/N 08718-0004 or 08718-0009) to the engine block mating surface of the oil pan and to the inner threads of the bolt holes. Install the component within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket.

NOTE:
* Apply liquid gasket about 2.5 mm (0.098 in) diameter bead along the broken line (A).
* If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and residue, then reapply new liquid gasket.

4. Install the oil pan on the engine block.





5. Tighten the bolts in three steps. In the final step, torque all bolts, in sequence, to 12 Nm (1.2 kgfm, 9 lbfft). Wipe off the excess liquid gasket on the each side of crankshaft pulley and the flywheel/drive plate.

NOTE:
* Wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with oil.
* Do not run the engine for at least 3 hours after installing the oil pan.

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