3.Reassembly

FIGURE 9:

CAUTION:

The pads for the right and left wheels must be replaced at the same time. Never "split" or intermix brake pad sets. All four pads must be replaced as a complete set.

A. If the old pads are worn, it may be necessary to push the piston back into the caliper. If this is necessary, use SST 09581-11000. (See Figure 9). This will provide sufficient clearance to install the new pads.

FIGURE 10:

B. Install new brake pads and new anti-squeal shim. (NOTE: The shim must only be installed between the outer pad and caliper.)

FIGURE 11:

C. Reinstall pad retaining pins making sure that each pin goes through the outer caliper, antisqueal shim, both brake pads and into the receiving holes of the inner caliper.

FIGURE 12:

D. Install new K-spring and M-clip making sure that each end of the M-clip goes through the holes in the upper and lower brake pad retaining pins. Additionally, make sure that K-spring hoop is hooked over the inner pad tab and that the M-clip ear goes through the outer pad locating hole as shown.

FIGURE 13:

E. Reinstall the pad protector as shown in Figure 13.

FIGURE 14:

^ Make sure that securing tabs are clipped over each of the pad retaining pins as shown in Figure 14.

FIGURE 15:

F. Install wheel and torque nuts to appropriate specification.

Wheel nut tightening torque:

Steel wheel 50-57 ft.lbs. (7-8 kg-m)

Aluminum alloy wheel 65-72 ft.lbs. (9-10 kg-m)


CAUTION:

Use a Torque Wrench Only! Do not use an impact wrench to tighten wheel nuts. This type of wrench often leads to over torquing which may damage the wheel nuts and studs and/or the wheel.
G. Test drive vehicle and break-in new brake pads. Break-in Procedure: Accelerate to 30 mph, apply moderate (normal) brake pedal pressure and bring vehicle to a full stop. Repeat this procedure several times, allowing a brief "cooling off" period between each stop.

DO NOT MAKE HARD STOPS DURING TEST DRIVE AND BREAK-IN PROCEDURE.