Part 2
WM 1001Z1 Disassembling engine
Camshaft controller
30. Remove vibration balancer.
31. Turn the engine around. The oil pan must be facing upwards.
32. Unscrew oil pan -1-. To do this, remove all the screws -4-. The inserted seal can be reused. It only needs to be replaced if damaged (cracked, worn down, hardened, etc.) or if it is leaking.
Oil pan
33. Detach and remove joint flange on the oil pressure control valve -2-. Disconnect oil level sensor and remove by turning -5-.
Oil guide housing with accessories
34. Remove all oil lines between the oil guide housing and oil pump. => Oil lines on naturally aspirated engine => Oil lines, intake pipe on naturally aspirated engine
Oil lines on naturally aspirated engine
Oil lines, intake pipe on naturally aspirated engine
35. Remove all screws between the oil guide housing and crankcase/timing-case cover -4-. Don't forget the screws at the front -7-.
Oil guide housing with accessories
36. The oil guide housing is sealed with glue. To make it easier to remove, carefully lever off the oil guide housing between the outer flanges on the crankcase and the oil guide housing. => Removing oil guide housing Loosen by tapping carefully with a plastic hammer if necessary. Remove the entire oil guide housing. Remove old sealing ring for the crankcase.
Removing oil guide housing
37. Remove joint flange on vibration balancer -1- at the timing-case cover. To do this, remove the screws -2 and 3-.
Chain tensioner, joint flange
38. Remove all M6 and M8 screws on the timing-case cover => Timing-case cover and lift off the timing-case cover. Also remove all the metal seals -2, 3, 4, 5-.
Timing-case cover
Timing-case cover seals
39. Remove timing chain -1- (mark rolling direction for re-installation using a felt-tip pen) from all the sprockets and place on a clean surface.
Timing chain and sprockets
40. Remove tensioning rail -4-. Remove threaded peg -1- if necessary.
Tensioning rail
41. Remove U-rail (guide rail) -4-. To do this, remove four M8 screws -5-.
Timing chain and sprockets
42. Carefully slacken the lower tensioning rail for the oil pump chain. Press the tensioning rail back with a small screwdriver until both staking holes between the tensioning rail and guide rail are aligned. => Oil pump tensioning rail
Oil pump tensioning rail
43. Stake tensioning rail for oil pump chain through the hole in the guide rail using a suitable drill bit, drift punch or nail. This slackens the oil pump chain. => Staking tensioning rail for oil pump chain
Staking tensioning rail for oil pump chain
44. Remove the guide rail -3-. The guide rail is locked with -6-.
Guide rail
45. If the sprockets and camshaft controllers are to be separated from the camshafts, now unscrew the loosened camshaft controllers and sprockets.
Camshaft adjustment
46. Slowly and uniformly loosen and then unscrew all M6 screws -3 and 5- in the camshaft housings -2, 4 and 6-. The bearing covers are marked E for intake camshaft and A for outlet camshaft. The bearing covers are numbered consecutively by cylinder. The bearing covers are seated very securely in the cylinder head because of a dowel sleeve -1-. Jiggle free using a pliers if necessary. Place on a marked, clean surface.
Camshaft mount, cylinders 5 to 8
47. Remove camshafts -3 and 6- and place on a marked, clean surface.
Camshafts, cylinders 5 to 8
48. Remove valve lifters -1 and 2- and place on a marked, clean surface in such a way that they cannot be mixed up.
Diagram showing how to set down lifters
49. Remove mounting saddle at the front -8-. This hides the cylinder head screws underneath.
50. Remove front M8 screw securing the cylinder head of cylinders 1 to 4 to the crankcase. -3-
Cylinder head 1 to 4
51. Turn the engine so that the cylinder head you want to remove is pointing straight upwards.
52. The injectors can now be removed easily if necessary. For details, see -> 244019 Removing and installing fuel injector Service and Repair
53. Remove cylinder head screws in the opposite order to the tightening sequence shown => Tightening sequence for cylinder head. Remove cylinder head.
Tightening sequence for cylinder head
54. Remove cylinder head gasket.
55. Remove cylinder head for cylinders 5 to 8 in the same way.
56. Turn the engine around. The oil pump must be facing upwards.
57. Remove chain cover for oil pump -9-. To do this, remove the screws -10-.
Oil pump on naturally aspirated engine
58. Remove drive pinion for oil pump. Screw is tightened beyond the elastic limit. Use a screwdriver to counter at the oil pump through the bore in the drive pinion. => Countering oil pump pinion
Countering oil pump pinion
59. Remove oil pump pinion with chain and crankshaft pinion. => Oil pump chain
Oil pump chain
60. Unscrew oil pump -1-. To do this, remove the screws -8-. Pull oil pump out at the point where the pipe engages at the rear with the oil plate. When doing so, make sure that the locking lug does not break off. Swivel oil pump up and out.
61. Unscrew oil plate/oil guide.
Oil guide (oil plate)
62. Remove lower part of crankcase. First unscrew the four M8 screws on the output side -8 and 9-.
Lower part of crankcase
62.1. Unscrew outer M8 cross bolt connection in the opposite order to the tightening sequence. Always use new aluminium screws.
Tightening sequence for securing lower part of crankcase to upper part of crankcase (cross bolt connection)
62.2. Unscrew M10 and M11 thrust-bearing screws in the opposite order to the tightening sequence. Start with the outer M10 screws first.
Tightening sequence for thrust-bearing screws
62.3. Lift off lower part of crankcase. Get a second person to help if necessary. Remove old sealing ring for the upper part of the crankcase. Remove bearing shells if necessary and mark them.
63. Secure the crankshaft at the centre using a holding bridge holding bridge 9677/1. Tighten screws slightly. -1-
Crankshaft secured
64. Loosen connecting rod bolts -6- and take off connecting rod caps -5-. Push piston in question out of the crankcase using a wooden rod. Hold it in your other hand or get another person to help. Fit connecting rod cap hand-tight to the connecting rod again using the old screws and set down after marking according to the relevant cylinder. The connecting rod bolts must be replaced with new ones during re-installation. The connecting rods are cracked and the connecting rod code is facing the exhaust side. The combustion chamber recess on the piston is facing the injector.
Piston, connecting rod
65. Remove all pistons in the same way.
66. (If you have not already done so) turn the engine so that the crankshaft is at the top.
CAUTION
Heavy components
- Risk of squashing
-> Wear personal protective gear.
-> Get someone to help if necessary.
67. After removing all the pistons, remove the crankshaft -1- (remove holding bridge) and place on a clean surface.
Crankshaft
68. Remove all bearing shells -5 and 6- and thrust washers -4- if necessary. Mark the bearing shells and set them down.
69. Remove oil spray jets -6-. To do this, loosen the screws -7-.
Upper part of crankcase
70. Remove coolant guide -6-. Remove seals -7-.
Coolant guide
