Right-Hand Drive Cars
Replacing the power brake booster, right-hand drive cars
Special tools:
999 5517, 5518
998 5972
951 2050
Preparations
- Ignition off.
Put rags under the hydraulic unit to protect painted surfaces against brake fluid spillage.
Disconnect:
- Positive and negative leads from battery.
- Positive leads from battery shelf.
- Sparkplug leads from coil.
- Sparkplug leads from mountings on air filter casing.
- Ground braids from back of valve cover.
- Connectors from brake fluid reservoir cap, EBD pressure sensor, AC pressostat and anti-theft alarm horn.
- Cable from mountings on air hydraulic brake power assist unit (brake servo).
- Non-return valve and vacuum hose from air hydraulic brake power assist unit (brake power).
Remove:
- Bolt from torque member/torque arm.
- Air inlet hose from air filter casing.
In cars with automatic transmission
Disconnect upper oil radiator hose from radiator.
Use expanding circlip pliers on hose mounting.
In cars with turbo
Disconnect turbo air pipe from hose connection by upper intercooler connection.
Disconnect upper engine oil radiator hose from radiator. Use expanding circlip pliers on hose mounting.
Removing master cylinder
In cars with manual transmission
- Drain brake fluid reservoir
Block hose to clutch cylinder with hose pliers.
Disconnect hose from brake fluid reservoir.
All cars
Disconnect brake pipes from mountings on firewall.
Remove:
- Master cylinder from air hydraulic brake power assist unit (brake servo).
Lift master cylinder up carefully to avoid damaging brake pipes.
Keep master cylinder in position with a tie strip.
Note: Fix master cylinder in a horizontal position to prevent air entering braking system.
Removing sound insulation
Remove:
- Sound insulation on driver's side.
In cars with SRS:
Remove:
- Knee-guard.
Turn steering wheel so that steering wheel shaft bolt and nut are in best position for removal.
Note: In cars with SRS: Remove ignition key and turn steering wheel until it locks. Do not move steering wheel or front wheel positions while steering wheel shaft is separated from steering gear.
Removing locking lug, bolt, nut and gaiter.
Remove:
- Locking lug, nut and bolt from steering wheel shaft joint.
Remove lower steering wheel shaft from joint.
Push steering wheel shaft up into steering wheel column.
Bend outer section of gaiter.
- Circlip and gaiter.Take care to prevent dirt entering gaiter bearing. Protect the joint's bearing surface as well.
Working with car jacked up
Jack car up.
Remove:
- Both front protective cover bolts. Push cover forward so that guide on rear edge comes clear. Undo cover at front edge.
Working with car jacked up, continued
Remove:
- Cable pipe mounting bolt from subframe.
Unhook pipe from frame.
- Bolt from negative lead clip on frame member.
In cars with turbo:
- Disconnect turbo air pipe from hose connection by lower intercooler connection.
Installation tools
Use 999 5517 (bright) (2 x for LH side) and 999 5518 (yellow) (2 x for RH side).
Position jack998 5972 under LH side of frame.
Remove:
- Front and rear frame bolts.
Install:
- Tool 999 551 7, the front one with the bolt washer.
Tighten tools as far as they will go. Then tighten the tool nuts.
Remove:
- Support bracket bolts by rear lever arm bolt.
Move jack to RH side and repeat as above.
Lowering subframe
Start by lowering front of frame to half the tool's bolt length.
Now do the same with the rear of the frame.
Now lower the frame to the full length of the tools using the same procedure.
In cars with turbo:
- Check while lowering that the turbo air pipe by the lower intercooler connection does not get caught in the radiators.
Note: It is important to lower the frame in the correct order, otherwise the steering wheel shaft joint will catch in the body opening.
Removing air hydraulic brake power assist unit (brake servo)
Remove:
- Circlip from air hydraulic brake power assist unit (brake servo) pushrod.
- The four nuts holding the air hydraulic brake power assist unit (brake servo) to the firewall.
- The air hydraulic brake power assist unit (brake servo)
Note: Watch out for the seal between the air hydraulic brake power assist unit (brake servo) and the firewall.
Installing new air hydraulic brake power assist unit (brake servo)
Transfer cable clip and seal to the new air hydraulic brake power assist unit (brake servo).
Use a new seal if necessary.
Install:
- Air hydraulic brake power assist unit (brake servo) with the connection for the non-return valve in the four o'clock position.
- Four new mounting nuts.Tighten to 25 Nm.
Connect:
- Non-return valve and vacuum hose to air hydraulic brake power assist unit (brake servo).
Raising subframe
Raise:
- Subframe, using previously installed tools 999 5517 and 5518.
Check that the steering wheel shaft joint does not catch in the bodywork opening when raising the frame.
- Rear of frame to half of tools' bolt length. Now repeat with front of frame.
- Frame, until its bushings are only a few millimeters from the frame members, in the same order as above.
Note: It is important to raise the frame in the correct order, otherwise the steering wheel shaft joint will catch in the bodywork opening.
Mounting subframe
- Position and apply a jacking unit under the LH side of the frame.
Install:
- Support brackets and bolts, loosely.
Remove:
- Tools 999 5517 and 5518.
Install:
- Subframe bolts.
Note: Be careful of the washer on the front bolt. Use new bolts (4 x M14).Grease bolt threads.
- Tighten bolts to 105 Nm (77.5 ft. lbs.) plus 120 degrees. Use protractors 951 2050.
- Now tighten support bracket bolts to 50 Nm (36.9 ft. lbs.).
- Move jacking unit to RH side and repeat as above.
In cars with turbo
Install:
- Turbo air pipe to hose connection by lower intercooler connection.
Finishing work with car jacked up
Install:
- Bolt to negative lead clip on frame member.
- Cable pipe to subframe.
- Front protective cover.
Push front of cover home.Push it forward and push it up at the back so the cover guide fits into its track.
- Bolts.
Installing gaiter, nut, bolt and locking lug
Install:
- Gaiter on steering wheel shaft joint/bodywork opening.
Make sure that gaiter ends up in the correct position. Push gaiter circlip home and turn back top of gaiter.
- Steering wheel shaft joint to steering wheel shaft. Use new locknut. Tighten to 20 Nm (14.8 ft. lbs.).
- Locking lug
Installing master cylinder
Connect:
- Master cylinder to air hydraulic brake power assist unit (brake servo) Tighten to 25 Nm (18.4 ft. lbs.)..
- Connect hose from clutch master cylinder to brake fluid reservoir.
- Remove hose pliers.
- Fill brake fluid reservoir. Use genuine Volvo DOT 4+ brake fluid when topping up.
Bleed clutch if necessary and check level in brake fluid reservoir.
Connecting components
Connect:
- Brake pipes to mountings on firewall.
- Electrical lead on mountings on air hydraulic brake power assist unit (brake servo).
- EBD, AC, level sensor, horn and anti-theft alarm connectors.
- Torque bracket to torque arm.
Note: Use new bolt and locknut.
Tighten:
- Nut toss 35 Nm (25.8 ft. lbs.). plus 90°.
Connect:
- Ground braids to firewall.
- Air hose to air filter casing.
- Sparkplug leads to coil and mountings on air filter casing.
- Battery positive leads to mountings on battery shelf.
- Battery leads to battery.
Finishing work
As the air brake pedal lever arm is disconnected from the air hydraulic brake power assist unit (brake servo), it is important to reset the brake light switch.
- Remove and install brake light switch.
In cars with SRS:
Install:
- Knee-guard.Tighten to 20 Nm (14.8 ft. lbs.)
- Sound insulation under steering wheel.
Clean off any brake fluid spillage with lukewarm water and car-wash shampoo.
In cars with automatic transmission:
Connect:
- Oil radiator hose to radiator.Use new O-ring.
In cars with turbo:
Connect:
- Turbo air pipe to hose connection by upper intercooler connection.
- Engine oil radiator hose to radiator.Use new O-ring.